Fashioning mechanism for knitting machines



Nov. 22, 1949 E. W. -KAUL. ET AL FASHIONING MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES Filed July 17, 1945 i2 Sheets-Sheet 1 fie--5- v INVENTORS Emil mumm uhs Nov. 22, 1949 E. w, KAUL ET AL 2,489,141

FASHIONING MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES l2 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed July 17, 1945 F LEE--Q...

1 ml Q w WP 1 5 I, 22 i6 /72 ll-I- ip! 50 gym-ail 121 a 5 INVNT'ORS Emil Will am an;

ORNEY INVENTOIR5 and (Q richflfehnel ATTORNEY Nov. 22, 1949 E. w. KAUL ETAL FASHIONING MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES Filed July 17, 1945 12 Sheets-Sheet 4 Emil Mlliam BYHerberiE NOV. 22, 1949 w KAUL ETAL 2,489,141

FASHIONING MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES Filed July 17, 1945 12 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTORS Emil Wmmmfiwz &

ATTORNEY Nov. 22, 1949 E, KAUL ET 2,489,141

FASHIONING MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES Filed July 1'7, 1945 12 Sheets-Sheet 6 Fir-5-1.5- 216 Fm... IH 1 J 1 79 7517 M 111 2i Z06 Y INVENTORS Emil WilLiamfia uZ &

Nov. 22, 1949 E. w. KAUL. EI'AL 2,489,141

FASPIIONING MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES Filed July 1'7, 1945 12 Sheets-Sheet '7 F Ice--15- Nov. 22, 1949 w. K ETAL 2,489,141

FASHIONING MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES Filed July 17, 1945 12 Sheets-Sheet 8 INVENTQRS Emil H ilh'am/ and ATTORNEY jierberi Erich imez E. w. KAUL ET AL msnromne MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES Filed July 17, 1945 Nov. 22, 1949 12 Sheets-Sheet 9 INVENTORS Emil Wilbiamfiwul (5 gyflerbefl Elit'h imel Q4 ATTORN EY Nov. 22, 1949 Filed July 17, 1.945

E. w. KAUL ET AL 2,489,141

FASHIONING MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES l2 Sheets-Sheet 10 NEY Nov. 22, 1949 E. w. KAUL Er AL 2,489,141

msnxonme mscmmsm FOR KNITTING MACHINES Filed July 17, 1945 12 Sheets-Sheet ll m k g min; iii!!! magnum INVENT Rs 55am aul rich aehnel Nov. 22, 1949 E. w. KAUL ETAL 2,489,141

FASHIONING MECHANISM FOR KNITTING MACHINES Filed July 1'7, 1945 12 Sheets-Sheet 1.2

P IE- .55... 415 10.9 p22 w z 155 v m 5, 219 ans 1% mum w INVENTORS Emil William an: BYfler fiflrich aeimel A ORNEY Patented Nov. 22, 1949 FASHIoriiNQMrfonANrsMaioRmrr'rme MACHINES l Emil William Ka3il,- Wyonfissing, and Herbert Erich Haehnel; West eaaingra, "a ss'ig n'ors to Te'xtil'e Ma hine Works, W'Yomissinglm; a corporationdf Pennsylvania Application-July '1 1945, Serial No. 605,530

'21 Clams.

1 I l The present invention relates to knittedwfabrics, a method of, and a mechanismionproducing the same, and particularlyrto such tabrics, method and mechanism in relation to fullfashioned stockings for providing novel selvage andloop arrangement of special-utility imsingle unit stockings. g V

R has been attempted with the standard forms of full-fashioned knitting-machinery to produce single unit stockings having an upper heel portion widened by points to make lines of lace-openings parallel to the selvages and tofollow-the widened portions by portions havingparallel sides and having 'the lines of lace openings-extending thereinto, but difficulties have been errcountered through the inadequacies ofsuch equipment. In practicing these. aforesaid meth ods, unless special mechanismisemployed tor making closed selvages along saide-parallelsided portions, runs very readily start in the parallel sided portions before they can be seamed giving rise to undue numbers of seconds or menders. In fact, at times, runs starting in the parallel sided portions escape from the seamandruin .a

stocking the first time or two it is worn, even when the stocking has passed the usual factory inspection.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a novel loop arrangement for parallel sided stocking in which certain loops of a course are transferred outwardly and certain ofsuch outwardly transferred loops inthe same-course are transferred inwardly.

In the method according to the invention itis desired to operate the point spindle three-times between the knlttingpftwo immediately-sue cessive courses without movement-ofthe end stop spindle, and it is accordingly another 01131691} of the invention to provide means wherebythis may be readily accomplished.

A further object or the invention is to protide r means to operate "the point spindle to transfer the loops outwardly in forming lace openings; to idly reposition the transferring meansoutwardly and to'trans'fer all of the loops inwardly except the outwardly transferred loops-forming the lace openings to restore said loops to'thei-r original positions.

In narrowing full-fashioned stockings i t has been common :to employ so -called two needle narrowing, that is to transfer loops in a narrowed course two needle-spaces inwardly at one step, and it is desired to retain this method of nar row'ing in making the large majority of the fabric in a stocking as being more expeditous while also generally satisfactory, but it is also 'desired 'to employ single needle narrowing at;:times,--es pecially in the heel portions of stockings within the invention, and it is therefore a further object of the invention to provide novel means whereby the action of the more usual mechanism 'for. two needle narrowing may be quickly and convenientlymodified to carry out single needle narrowing when and for such times as desired. A still further object of the invention is to provide convenient and novel means whereby a mechanism for shifting the narrowing points and the end stops each two needle spaces-simultaneously may be changed-to shift the narrowing points only one needle space andmaintain the end stops stationary.

A-further object of the inventionis to provide -means 'whereby the loops of the certain courses of the heel portionsare transferred outwardly a distance of one needle and certainof the outwardly transferred loops in the -same course are transferred inwardly a distance of one needle.

With these and other objects in view, which will become apparent from the following detailed description of the illustrative embodiment of the novel heelarrangement shown inthe ae companying drawings, the invention resides in the novel method of forming singlennit heels; and-the new heel arrangement resu-lting there from, as well as the new elementsfeaturesof construction and arrangements of parts-inicooperative relationship ashereinafter-more particularly pointed out in the claims.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 is an elevation ofa fin ished fullfashioned stocking within the invention;=

Fig. 2 is-aplan View of a flat-knitted blank from which the stocking shown in-Fig. 1 was-madeby looping and seaming the edges together;

Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic view illustrating the 3 loop formation of portions of the widened and parallel sided parts of the heel zones of the blank of Fig. 2 as it appears in knitting;

Figs. 4, 5, 6 and 7 are diagrammatic fragmentary views of the loop formations and showing the steps taken in providing lace marks in the parallel sided parts of the heel zones shown in Fig. 3;

Fig. 8 is a detail view on an enlarged scale of a heel zone of the stocking shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 9 is an elevational view of the narrowing head at the left end of a full-fashioned knitting machine equipped with means to carry out the novel method within the invention, portions of the end frame of the machine being removed and the remainder shown in dot and dash outline;

Fig. 10 is a view of a portion of Fig. 9 but on an enlarged scale, certain control parts being shown in different positions;

Fig. 11 is a sectional detail view taken substantially on the line I I--H of Fig. 10, looking in the direction of the arrows;

Figs. 12 and 13 are detail views of a part of Fig. 10, the parts being shown in different relative positions.

Fig. 14 is a detail View in plan of the parts indicated by the arrows I4M in Fig. 13;

Fig. 15 is a rear elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 10;

Fig. 16 is a front elevation of the parts shown in Fig. 10;

Fig. 1'7 is a fragmentary view partly in section, taken on the line I 'l-l'! of Fig. 16, looking in the direction of the arrows;

Fig. 18 is a fragmentary view, partly in section taken on the line I8|8 of Fig. 16 looking in the direction of the arrows;

Fig. 19 is is a fragmentary view of a portion of Fig. 10 showing the parts in the positions assumed during ordinary two needle narrowings;

Fig. 20 is a view similar to Fig. 19 but showing the parts in the positions for the beginning of a single needle movement of the fashion points without any movement of the end stops;

Fig. 21 is a view similar to Fig. 20 but with the parts in different relative positions;

Fig. 22 is a front elevational view of certain of the spindle mechanism and control means therefor shown in Fig. 9, parts being broken away, and including other control mechanism within the invention;

Fig. 23 is a fragmentary elevational view taken substantially on the line 23-23 of Fig. 9, looking in the direction of the arrows;

Fig. 24 is a plan view of the lower portion of Fig. 22 taken substantially on the line 24-2fl of Fig. 22, parts being omitted for clearness of illustration;

Fig. 25 is a fragmentary sectional view taken substantially on the line 25-25 of Fig. 22;

Figs. 26 and 27 are diagrammatic views showing the positions of the narrowing head mechanism at both ends of the machine and associated carrier rod and narrowing points at different times during the execution of certain of the method steps according to the invention;

Figs. 28, 29, 30 and 31 are views similar to the left end portion of Figs. 26 and 27 but showing other method steps according to the invention;

Fig. 32 is an end elevation similar to Fig. 10 of a modified form of narrowing head within the invention; and

Fig. 33 is a detail view of certain parts appearing in Fig. 32 and as viewed from the left of said figure.

In the drawings and description, only the means necessary to a complete understanding of the invention have been specifically set forth; further information as to the construction and operation of other related, usual and well known knitting machine elements, mechanisms, etc., may be found in one or more of the following publications:

1. Pamphlet entitledFull-Fashioned Knitting Machinespub1ished and copyrighted by the Textile Machine Works, Reading, Pennsylvania, in 1920.

2. Three Catalogs entitledThe Reading Full-Fashioned Knitting Machine Parts Catalog published and. copyrighted by the Textile Mahine Works, in 1929, 1935, and 1940, respectively.

3. Booklet entitleclThe Reading High- Production Full-Fashioned Knitting Machinewhich forms a supplement to the above noted 1940 Parts Catalog of the Textile Machine Works, and which booklet is a publication of the Textile Machine Works, and was copyrighted by the latter in 1940.

4. Pamphlet entitled-Knitting Machine Lecturespublished by the Wyomissing Polytechnic Institute, Wyomissing, Pennsylvania, in .1935.

A single unit full-fashioned stocking within the invention includes heel zones having widened portions or areas in which are fashioned lace lines generally parallel to the selvages, said widened portions followed by parallel sided portions, into which the lace lines continue from the widened portions and in the same general direction, and which has closed selvages composed of all walewise lying loops. In other words, all the edge loops in the parallel sided portions are knitted on the same needles. Between the edge loops and the lace openings in the parallel sided portions are narrowing or fashion marks, one fashion mark to each lace opening, each such fashion mark including a loop formed on a needle and a loop transferred outwardly to such needle when forming the lace opening. In the arrangement shown, the fashion mark lies next outside a lace opening, but the invention is not limited to this.

A method within the invention includes forming a parallel sided portion of a single unit heel zone by transferring outward a group of loops including an edge loop, thereby forming a lace opening, and then transferring inward a lesser group of loops including the edge loop but for the same distance, thereby forming a fashioning mark at the point at which the innermost loop of said lesser group was restored to the needle on which it was formed.

The novel mechanism herein disclosed for carrying out the aforesaid method includes a means for transferring a group of loops including the edge loops outward in the widening direction and a means for transferring the edge loop inwardl an equal distance to restore it to the needle on which it was formed. Preferably the loops transferred outwardly in any course number only one more than those transferred inwardly so that a fashion mark and a lace opening are formed alongside each other and this is repeated in a number of courses to provide a fabric portion in the heel cheeks of special appearance and one having parallel selvages.

Referring to the drawings more in detail, a blank 49 is shown in Fig. 2, from which a stocking 50 shown in Fig. 1 is formed. Said blank and stocking each comprises a two ply welt 5| followed by a single ply portion 52 which constitutes the major portion of the stocking and the selvages along the high heels.

Which'ha's therein lines-of fashion'marks-53one on each side of the back seam, resultingfrom the upper leg narrowing and lines of fashion marks. 54 resulting from the lower leg or calf narrowings. Below the narrowing lines 54 and beginning at about the level of the ankle is a reinforced region which extends inwardly from each selvage part way ofthe width of the stocking until near the lower or forward end thereof,

from which point tothe end the reinforcementextends from selvage to selvage. The upper portions of said reinforced'reg-ion arecommonly known as the high heels 55 which are relatively narrow and below which the inner edges of the reinforced zone incline inwardly to points 56 just above the course at which it is desired to begin making the region in which the heels are included. As an incident to making said region, the .selvages of the flat-blank 49 from which stocking 50 is made are widened by groups of fashioning points held in the usual narrowing combs or fingers and so used as to step out the edge loops of every other course for a number of courses along with a wide group of loops with each edge loop so that the selvages are widened gradually, the stepping or transferring movement being only one needle space for each comb at eachwidening operation, a needlespace being understood as the distance between two next adjacent ones in a row of needles 51. Further, the innermost pointof each group necessarily makes a lace opening at each widening operation and thereby forms one opening of a pair of widening or gore lines 58 which run parallel to the selvages. In order that the outward transfer of the edge loops may bevefiective to widen the fabric, the end. stops for the yarn carrier rods must also be moved outward enough to permit the yarn carriers to lay yarn to the needles to which the edge loops have been transferred by thefashion points. However, as the points are moved only one needle space at each edge per transfer while the carrier rod end stops are necesarily moved two needle spaces each time their position is changed, provision is made whereby the end stops are moved only once for every two operations of the points.

The said widening operations result in definite heel cheeks 59 which project beyond the lines of Enough outward transfers of the edge loops having been made by the points to widen the heel fabric to the desired degree, the edge loops are formed on the same needles for a time, the fabric thereby being formed ofuniform width-as knitted until the heel portions have been completed and the parallel selvage edges 60 thereby result. The

lower ends of each heel portionis marked by a course shown in dot and dash in Fig. 2. Be-

low the courses 6|, the selvages are reduced sharply in width and short walewise or parallel selvage edge portions 62 are formed immediately following the courses 6|. Also, ravel course sections 63 are provided immediately below the 7 courses Bl, said sections 63 being separate from a the selvage edges 62 so that sections 53 can be ravelled out when desired, this being necessary prior to looping the courses 5| together. The toe portion is also looped in the usual manner after which the remainder of the selvage edges are seamed together to complete the stocking 50. Just below the selvage edgesfi2 the foot portion is shown as having lines 64'of fashion marks formed in conjunction (with a gusset narrowing. This is. a common feature in 'fullfashioned stockings. remainderotthez'foot .portlomof blank-49 and stocking 50 is formed-many known or desired way. Instead of 'diamondpointnarrowings, a feature largely". zused in 'two unit stockings, the toe narrowings are'shown as'composedof single liness65 of fashion marks. This form of toe narrowingl is used becausethe legger or single unit machine onnwhich thestocking and blank shown are maderpossessesionly'one 'comb'on each side of eachknitting section insteadof a pair on each side as isnecessary to i make the-diamond point, type oftoe.

It 1 will be observed'that the lines- 58 of lace marks continue beyond the course at which the parallel selvage edges 6|] begin, said lines being shown as extending practically to the course'5l in each heel portion. Saidlines58 are continued or=extended as shown partlyfor appearancesand partly to maintain the" loop tension in the lower portions of heel cheeks59 'morei nearly the same as in the upper portions of the cheeks. The

method of making the. lace' openings in the porthe first of a series offashion marks 68 each of which includes a loopi-WhichhaS been transferred outwardly in the process of making an opening in the line 58 and a loop'which has been first transferred outwardly and:thenreturnedlto its 1 original position so that" it and the other. loop contained in the fashion mark are on the needle 7 on which said returned loopswas formed. As

appears in Fig. .4,- after; the 1 loops of course 61 have been knitted but-while they are still on needles 51, groups of fashioning' points 69 are brought down intocontact with theneedles hold ing groups of loopsthereon; the .edge loops being included in said groups ahdithere being t'wogroups of points one at eachusides'of thefabric'of which only the one at-the left side is shown. inFigsp 4,

'5, 6 and '7. Points 69 are pressed down between the loops and their needles-in known manner as indicated in Fig. 4 and the. points are then lifted while the needles are down, thereby taking: the groups of loops from the needles to the points. The points are then shifted outward one needle space, the distance between two'adjacent needles,

and the points again pressed into contact with the needles so that the loops needles and points occupy the positions shown in Fig. 5.:in which the edge loop shown has been. stepped out towiden .the fabric and the loop engaged by the innermost point 69 has been stepped outward away from its neighbor on the right to make a lace opening between the two. The sinkers arenow brought forward above the fabric and thezpoints are raised while the needles-are rising. so that the loops are stripped'down ion the shanksof the needles-and free of the points which are raisedfaster than the needles-so as to elevate'the points to their normal stationary positions above theneedles. The points are now shifted outwardly another needle space so 'that the innerinostpoint 59 is two needle spaces outside the position in brings two loops onto the same needle.

" which it is shown in Fig. 4. The points having been brought down between the loops and the needles again, the points are used to transfer the loops one needle distance inward instead of outward, so that the edge loop is restored to the needle on which it was formed, as shown in Fig. 6. Also, the other loops which had been transferred outward are restored to their original needles except the innermost one, the one whose displacement is the causeof the lace opening. However,

- as the loop which was moved outward to make the lace opening remains on the needle next outward fromthe one on which it was formed, the restoration of the next loop to its original needle When the next course is then knitted, the two loops are cast off the same needle resulting in a fashion mark 68 as shown in Fig. 7. As is clear from Figs.

' 6 and '7, as well as from that which has been said,

the fashion mark 68 in course 6'! includes the loop which originally occupied the lace opening;

' therefore, the fashion marks is next adjacent the lace opening in course 81. After the formation of another plain course, the routine followed in making the lace opening and fashion mark in course 61 is repeated and this method is thereupon continued to the end of the heel cheeks, at the course 6|, to'continue the lines 58 of lace openings substantially to the end of cheeks 59 and to make a line of fashion marks 68 alongside the lines of lace marks in the portions having parallel selvage edges 69. The resulting overall effect is perhaps best shown in Fig. 8 which shows the appearance of a portion of the stocking which includes the courses shown in Figs. 4, 5, 6 and '7 after the blank has been folded and the edges of the fabric seamed together.

Apparatus The apparatus employed in producing the above described stocking 59 and the method of making it is shown in Figs. 9 to 31, inclusive, and includes a narrowing head 14, Fig. 9. It will be understood that two narrowing heads are used, one at each end of the machine, the one at the left end being shown in detail while parts of both heads are shown diagrammaticall in Figs. 26 and 27. The mechanism of the narrowing head is operated from a main cam shaft 75 by means including a cam follower 18 which is mounted both to revolve and to slide on a pin shaft I1 fixed in a lever 18, the forward end of which is pivoted to the frame of the machine at a point I9. When it is desired to operate the narrowing head, the follower 'I8 is maintained or brought into such position on its shaft '1'! that it is affected by a cam 89 or by a cam I9 by either of which follower I6 is adapted to be operated.

The lever I8 is part of a train of parts including an actuator 8 I, the lower end of which is pivotally connected to lever I8 near the rear end thereof by means of a pin I3 and the upper end of which is forked and pivotally connected in the usual manner, to two levers 82 and 83, Fig. (connection not shown) pivoted to spindles on the narrowing head, lever 82 on an end stop or carrier rod spindle 84 and lever 83 on a narrowing rod spindle 85. Spindles 84 and 85 are threaded and have ratchet wheels fixed thereto whereby in cooperation with suitable racking elements, said spindles on head I4 may be turned in either direction in response to oscillating movements of lever 18.

For turning spindles 84 and 85 in the narrowdirection, ratchet Wheels 86 and 81, Figs. 19.

' tively, which are pivoted on levers 82 and 83 on spindles 84 and 85, the connection of pawl 89 with lever 83 .being shown in Fig. 16. The levers 92 and 83 and therefore the pawls 88 and 89 are lifted when actuator 8| is lifted .by either of said cams I9 or 89. Pawls 88 and I19 are normally in contact with the teeth of ratchet wheels 88 and 81 respectively and the arrangement is such that the throw of cam 19 or of cam 89 is sufiicient to give pawls 88 and 89 a movement, unless the natural action of the pawls is modified in some way, which moves spindles 84 and 85 enough so that nuts on threaded parts of the spindles are given a two needle movement each time the actuator is lifted.

The spindle 84 of each narrowing head has one nut such as 93, Figs. 26 to 31, inclusive, thereon while the spindle 85 of each narrowing head has two nuts 94 and 95 thereon. Each nut 93 has end stops such as 96 thereon the position of which determines the throw of yarn carrier rods such as 91 and therefore the number of needles to which the yarn carrier can lay yarn and the width of the fabric courses as knitted. The nuts 94 and 95 on each spindle 85 are arranged to adjust the position of bolt stops 98 on pairs of narrowing rods 99, I 99, said rods having narrowing fingers I9I and I92 thereon respectively, there being a finger I9I and a finger I92 for each knitting section. Fingers IN and I92 have the fashioning points 59 therein and fingers l9I are arranged to act on the left selvage of a piece of fabric being knitted while the fingers I92 are arranged to act on the right selvage.

For turning spindles 84 and 85 in the widening direction, said spindles have fixed thereon additional ratchet wheels I93 and I94, respectively. The teeth of ratchet wheels I93 and I94 are inclined oppositely to those of ratchets 86 and 81 and racking pawls I95 and I96 may be pivotally connected directly to actuator 8I but as shown in the drawings are mounted on a bracket 99 at points I91 and I98, respectively, and extend upwardly therefrom so that they are adapted, on an upward movement of actuator 8|, to rack the ratchet wheels I93 and I94 in the widening direction, the counterclockwise direction as viewed in Figs. 9, 10, 12 and 13. The bracket 90 is carried on a stud 9| in the actuator 8I, Fig. 16, and is adjustable relative to said actuator by screws 92 as shOWn in Figs. 10, 12 and 13. With the arrangement shown the movement of the actuator 8| is sufficient to turn both of spindles 84 and 85 sufiicient to move their nuts two needle spaces provided the natural action of the pawls is not interrupted or modified. Further, ratchet I93 has teeth of a length corresponding to a two needle movement while ratchet I94 has teeth only half as long to permit a one needle widening movement when desired. Also, a pawl I99 is pivoted on the stud 9| on actuator BI and arranged to turn ratchet I94 and spindle 85 in the widening direction on a downward movement of the actuator. Unless its action is interrupted, pawl I99 is adapted to turn spindle an amount equal to a one needle movement of the nuts 94 and 95. Pa'wl I 99 is used at times as a pull-b ack to move the fashioning fingers toward the selvage edges after a narrowing operation to produce lines :01 fashion marks inclined toward said selvage edges. Also it is used in carrying out the novel method hereinabove described to step the fashioning fingers outward each one needle distance to the desired positions for making fashion marks easer 68 after the fingers have'completed widening movements for making lace openin-gsin lines 58. Both automatic and manuall 'operated means are shown for interrupting or modifying the action of the pawls for racking spindles 84 and 85. One automatic means is coordinated withthe longitudinal or shogging movements of the cam shaft to ensure that the widening pawls H and, H36 are disabled or thrown out of racking position when the follower 16 is to cooperate with the narrowing cam 80 to move points 69 to narrow the fabric and the narrowing pawls 88 and 89 are disabled or thrown out oiracking position when follower 16 is to cooperate with narrowing cam so to move points 69 to widen the fabric. An

automatic means for preventing the pull-back pawl I09 from operating during the times .cer-

tain parts of the stocking are being. narrowed is also provided together with a means whereby said pawl I89 is permitted "to operate'when desired to modify the inclination of the lines of fashion marks.

Also, means is provided for preventing pawl 1| 09 from operating during certain .movements of actuator 8| and means wherebysaid pawl is permitted to operate to increase the movements of the fashioning fingers in the widening direction.

when desired to assist in carrying out the method of the present invention. vA manually operated means is.also provided which restricts the action of narrowing pawl 89 so that it racks point spindle 85 only one needle space at each operational cycle ofactuator 8 I. .Said manual means also includes an arrangement for preventing ,a racking action by narrowing pawl 88 on spindle 84 when pawl 89. is performing a single needle movement. Further, an automatic meansis pro.- vided whereby widening pawl 1.05 for .end stop spindle. B4 is prevented from acting to rack .the

spindle at certain. times when pawl 106 is active;

to permit the point spindle 85.to be turned .without a corresponding movementwofl the .end stop.

spindle and to thereby assist incarrying out the novel method-herein disclosed.

It will be understood that the cam. shaft J5".

is shogged to the right. from theposition shown? l in Figs. 22 and 24 each .time the actuator 8| .is.

to be operated, the camshaft. being shown in .its. a left .hand or knitting ,position whereas its right.

hand position is the one in which the narrowing.

machine is operated. It will belseenrthat whena. shaft 15 is in the knitting position. ,the cam follower 16, unless shifted, lies in a position.

intermediate the planes of the. narrowing ,cam

88 and the widening-cam 18. -When afashioning..

operation is tobe performed by .thewnarrowing machine and thecombs onthe rods operated by.

spindle 85, the shaft 15.is.shogged longitudinally by a knowncam shaft shifting. means,.not shown,

under the control of the well-known patter-n chain or equivalent means, .alsoanotshownl If the fabric is to .be.narrowed.or.widenedhy transfer. of loops bythe .combs :and spindle follower I5. is permitted to remain in the .posi-.

tion shownin Fig. 22. .The shift to the right.

of shaftl5 thereupon brings cam Bland fol-- lower 16 into the same vertical planetogive the actuator 3! an up and down .,motion...starting from a position as shown in which theweightof the actuator is .suported on a bracket ,l H ,by a bolt H2 fixedto the bracket and contacting at its upper end the actuator 8| in .the usual manner (not shown).

35 both turn enough tomove their nuts two In case of an ordinary narrowing motion;onein'whichspindles 84 and 10 needleflspaces, automatic control means associated; with spindles 84 and 85 permits the narrowing pawls- 88 and 89 to operate normally while preventing the widening pawls I05 and J86 from affecting their ratchets. Said control means includes two plate cams H5 and H6 pivoted on spindles 84 and'85, respectively. Unless posirearwardly and is. pivotally connected at its lower end with a shortlink'JZU which is pivoted in turn at its lower end to one arm l2! of a b e ll crank lever [28; As is perhaps best shown Fig. 22, the pivot between. link and link H5 is at right angles to the pivot. between link 12!! landarm1l2l so thatlinkjllfl acts as a universal joint between longlink H9 and member I2}.

The bell-tmank lever I21 is pivotally carried on .a pin J22 secured to..the frame of the ma; chine, .Fig.. 24. The bell-crank lever 129 .is pro,- vided with asecondarm 1 34 pivotally connected;

to one endiof a link 123, Fig. 23, the other end of which is pivotally connectedto -a fork I2} best shown in Fig.. 24; vFork 1.24 has an .eye ,or

collar. part at its right hand end which .is connected to a red I 26. Rod 126 runs parallel and close to a. bac k.beam J21 which is part of the framework of v the machine and -.rod 1-26 is supportedfrom said beam by. brackets H4 one-of which isshown .in ,Fig. 24. Aispring ,.l3n.acting in compression betweena bracket I28 ana .collar {3| presses rod I26 towardtheright as viewedin Fig. 2.4, and serves to holdsaidcams I I5 and I I 6 normally inthe positions in .whichlnarrowing movements of ,the spindles .84 and. 85 -may .be carried out. lftod lz fi runs .the entire length of the .[machine so. that-it alsolcontrols.camslcorresponding to,cams .115 and H6 in the narrow.-

ing head at Ttheright. end-of the machine. It

will ,be seen further that cams .I I5 and il [,6 are connected at a level. above spindles. 84 and 85 a by a ,link ..l32,..the iendsof which are pivotally connectedtocams. l [5 and..| [.6 so that thetwoare maintained in a. definite. angular relation one to anothen. Cams] l5 and. .I I6 'beinglundersthe controlof spring !.30and therefore in thepositionshown in.Figs-.-9 andl3. in which-the spindles 84 and. 8.5 may .beracked in the narrowing direction, whenever the .pattern means causes shaft 15 toheshoggedto theright, cam Bflis brought beneath follower-1.6. and .a narrowing action results... Such ,actions...are those which .produce.

lines. of. fashion .marks such as lines 53 l and .54,

the spindles .84..and 85 both-being turned so as i to move. their ,nuts two .-needle .spaces at .each operation andrthe lines of-fashion marks being 4 formed parallel ttothe selvages unless additional;

meansareused toproduce a. different results When .nowit is desired that spindles 841and-.85 shall. cause .rvideningaactionof the iashioning' points-in vthe .combsn-operated by spindle :85, at. the .ssame.. time. .-the patter-n .means causes cam. shaft J5 tube. shiftedto .the .right, the pattern. means also operates a control. rod I35, Figs..;.2 2 and 24; so as to .set in motion .a means to shift cams H5 and I 16 from the positions shown in Figs. 9 and 13 to those shown in Fig. 12. Said rod I35, is shown in Fig. 22 in its right hand position in which the parts controlled by it are stationary. When the pattern means acts on rod I35, the rod is moved to the left as viewed in Fig. 22 against the pressure of a spring (not shown). Rod I35 is pivotally connected to a lever I36 which is pivoted. at its lower end to a bracket fixed on the frame of the machine. At its upper end lever I36 normally supports the front end of a lever I31, best shown perhaps in Figs. 22 and 25. A spring I38 serves to draw the front end of lever I31 downward against the free end of lever I36 so long as the lever I 36 is in the vertical plane of lever I3! but when the pattern means has moved lever I36 out from beneath lever I31, spring I38 draws lever I31 down so that a cam follower I40 pivoted on the lever rests on a cam I4I fixed on the main cam shaft I5. Lever I31 being pivoted at I42 intermediate its ends, its rear end moves up as its front end moves down and the upward movement of the rear end of lever I3! is employed to move said rod I26 against its spring I30. For this purpose, three short links I43, I44 and I45 are pivotally connected in a chain between the rear end of lever I31 and the end of a horizontal arm I4! of a bell-crank lever I48, Fig. 23, which is pivoted on the rear face of the back-beam I2! in a vertical plane at right angles to the plane of lever I31 the links I43, I44 and I45 being arranged to act as a uni versal joint to permit the movement of lever I31 to be transmitted to the bell-crank lever I40. Lever I48 has a vertical arm I49 which projects downwardly from the axis of rotation of the lever so that, as arm I4I is raised, the lower end of arm I49 is moved toward the left as viewed in Fig. 23 and arm I40 thereupon carries with it a collar I50 on rod I26, best shown in Fig. 23,

to move the rod to the left against the pressure of spring I30. The leftward movement of rod I26 is thereupon transmitted through said members I23, I29, I20, H9 and H8 to cam H and through link I32 from cam M5 to cam IIB. Cams I I5and I I6 thereby are moved from the positions shown in Fig. 9 in which they throw out of action the widening pawls to the positions shown in Fig. in which cams I I5 and I I6 throw out of action the narrowing pawls while the widening pawls,

so far as these cams are concerned, are free to act. As is clear from the drawings, narrowing pawl 88 and widening pawls I05 and I 05 have pins or follower members I5I, I52 and I53, respectively, thereon which project into the vertical plane of cams H5 and H6 so that the edges of the cams may contact the pins and move the pawls in the desired manner. Narrowing pawl 89 for spindle 85, however, is not provided with a pin but pawls88 and 89 are connected by a link I54 whereby pawl 89 is thrown out of operation at the same time as pawl 88, this whether pawl 08 is moved by cam H5 or by other means. However, although it is the more common thing to widen the fabric at points in cooperation with the narrowing machine and the comb spindle 85 when the main cam shaft has been shogged, this is not essential andfabric is sometimes widened during the couliering portion of a knitting cycle or revolution. In this case, at the same time rod I26 moves cams H5 and M6 to throw pawl 88 out of action, it also moves cam follower I6 so that it will cooperate with the widening cam I0, whereby also an up and down movement of the actuator 8I is causedbut at a different point in the revolution of shaft I5 than that caused by cam 80. For this purpose, rod I25 has a pair of collars I55 thereon which lie one on one side and one on the other of a forked and downturned end of a generally horizontal lever I56 which is pivoted at I51 on a vertical pivot. EX- cept when widening is to be done during couliering and at which time the carrier rods only are used, one of collars I55, the one on the side of lever I56 toward spring I30 and which would therefore transmit a thrust to a lever I56 when rod I26 is moved to the left, is left loose on the rod or set otherwise so that there is a lost motion between the rear end of lever I56 and rod I26. The lever I56 is not affected by the movement of rod I26 when the rod is shifted preliminary to a shift of the main cam shaft followed by use of cam for lifting the actuator. To prevent accidental and undesired displacement of follower I6 from the position shown in Figs. 9 and 22 while the lower end of lever I50 is thus free to move relatively to rod I26, the hub of follower 16 has a groove 16A therein and a plate 18A is shown dotted in Fig. 24 and removably fixed to lever I8, plate 18A having an offset extending into said groove to hold the follower against movement longitudinally of its shaft so long as said collar is loose on rod I26. When now it is desired to shift follower I6 to cooperate with cam I0, plate 10A is removed from the machine and said collar I55 tightened on the rod I26 to hold lever I56 in the position relative to the rod shown in Figs. 22 and 23. The cams I0 and 80 and the lever I56 form, however, no part of the present invention and are not claimed herein. When now rod I26 is moved by arm I49 of bellcrank lever I48, one of collars I55 pushes against said rear end of lever I 56 to turn the lever in the counterclockwise direction as viewed in Fig. 24. The forward end of lever I56 is forked to embrace the edge of cam follower I6 so that when lever I56 is turned counterclockwise, the follower I6 is moved rightward to cooperate with cam I0. As shown, widening and narrowing cam 80 is in a different angular position on cam shaft I5 from widening cam I0. This is because it has been found necessary to operate the spindle 84 at a different time in the revolution of the cam shaft when widening during a knitting cycle than when narrowing or widening during a narrowing cycle or revolution in which the main cam shaft is shifted out of knittin position. Therefore, it will be understood that while the narrowing machine and associated narrowing fingers are not operated to affect the fabric when the cam I0 is to be employed and when plate ISA is removed from engagement with the hub of the follower 16A, the fingers are normally shifted laterally by the spindle 85 to maintain them in predetermined relation to the end stops when the spindle 84 operates said end stops and carrier rods to widen the fabric. The use of the narrowing machine is, however, essential to the formation of lace openings such as are shown in Figs. 1-3 and 58, so that it will be further understood that the description of cam 10 and its operation is given herein merely to explain the use of parts shown and commonly installed on the machine of the type shown.

The narrowing positions of cams H5 and H6 is assumed to be the normal one and these cams are therefore returned to the positions shown in Fig. 9 after each widening operation. To this end, cam I4I has a high point and when such high point comes beneath follower I40, cam I4I lifts lever I3! to a point such that rod I35 swings then returnwtowthe positions shown in Figs. 9,122

and.2 5 under'theinfluenceof spring I30 and-remain in such positions until another movement ofrod 35 under the infiuencezthe pattern means initiatesanother-movement of lever I31 It will be notedthat lever 13G hasaprojection 158 at one-sideof its {upper end which is adapted to catch on the left side of the front *endof lever I31 as viewed in Fig. 22 to prevent lever I36 frornrbeing drawn-past the plan of lever-I31 by the spring whichactuates rod 135 in thereturn direction.

It is the standard practicewto stepthefashioning points two needle spacesat each narrowing operation but it has been found necessary to movethe fashioning points onlylone needle space in widening operations; Therefore cam IE6 is sofcrmed that pawl I06 can move "its ratchet only one needle space a; any given wideningoperation. Pawl I05, however, moves its ratchet two needle'spaces per wideningpperation, so far i taken-to prevent;it,the.linesf58 of lace -openings made by the fashioning pointswouldtend to diverge fromthe.selvageedgelines. Howevenit is 1 desired that the lines oflaceppeningsaremain generally parallel to the selvage edges. fore-a means is provided ,for causing, whendesired,.the .vwidening pawl I05 tor spindle 84 to operate at. only. every other, stroker of actuators! when cams. I I5 and ll Ifiyare in their widening positions.- For this .purposeia split colla M8 :is placed aroundthe end-orthe-pin "I3 and collar I46 is provided with anupward. extension-formedof avboltthreaded intothecollar .atits-one' end andinto a connectingvmember I59 at its other end, connecting member I59 being pivotallyconnectedto an .armlfill of abell-cranklever 138,: Fig..15., pivotally mountedon-a fixedspinpr bolt.

I 6! and whichhas another arm IE2 which. carries. aracking pawl. I53 pivotallyconnected there- Thereto... Also pivoted onpin I6! is a-ratchet wheel- I64, Figs. 9.and.10. Fixed to the ratchet wheel i I64 on pin IEI is a star wheelcam lfie-whichis rotatedin step-by-step fashion bythe action. of pawl lfison theteeth of ratchet wheellfi. Cam I is provided .with alternate high and. low pertions l and H3, respectively. The surfaceoi, cameltli is in contact with a cam-fol1ower I510 pivotally mountednear the lowerend of a lever 1 I61 which ispivotally mounted on .a pin Ital-care ried on the frame of the machine, the upper end of lever being .adapted toengage pawl, M5 as hereinafterset forth. .As the high points H0 of.

star cam I55 act on the "follower we, the cam throws the upper endoflever IE1 ;to .theright so that it contacts pawl I05 to prevent pawl I505.

from rackin its spindle. 84 every other widening The end stopsi-are thereby maintained in step ,.with thefingers .or

movement ,of actuator .8 I

combs. holding the fashioning points .to maintain the selvage edges and .lace lines parallel.

Thepawl I63 for the star camcan be thr own out of operation manually when it is desired that the selvages diverge from the lines of lace openings when widening. In this-case the pawlis thrown out of action at a time the follower I68 is on a lowpoint of the star cam which permits the pawl A05 to rack thespindle 34 each widening"- movement.

The pull-back gortauxiliary wideni pawl 1 M8 acts,.when permitted, to turn thelpoint spindle; enough to move its nutsieach -one {need-1e spac at each down stroke 1 of the actuator :Howevem 1,. ;the major-partof ;the:time-,: ihfiSzdGSillGd toipre vent pawl I08 from-actingon. itsratchet H34. =:T.wo= meansareshown "for this purposenwOne.ofvthe 1' means shown for preventing rackingyqaction of pawl I09-is generally similar to aDPara-tus foundt in the "standard. .Read-ing full-fashioned iknit? ting. machines andcomprisesa ;lever- I68 .jourvnalled atits .upper end one rod I68 rwhichaextends alongthe rearoflthe machine parallel to spindle '84 and is fixed to the frame of ;the mat-w chine. Lever 468.dependsfirom'the-r-od .I\69andi the leveris-pivoted at itslower end ll'OnfinlillkyIa-Ijfl which has ;a hook-recess I-H near :;its ;-free lend adapted to drop onto a pin1:12which?isa xed top and proj acts from pawl 09. 'Itlis clear fromr the I08 away from itsratchet wheelso thatthejpawl will not ,afiect spindle :85. For.--op'erating. linki I'm-to draw pawl I08 1ef t war d, leveri lm haaan extension I'l4in Figs. lo and;l5,;and:whioh;ispro:r:= bovefand" parallel to rod I69. vAs shown inr Fig. 5lpqrtieniei I13 has fixed cam piecesI'| 5, ;I;I 6 and Hi: thereon H which are adapted toibe: contactedebya slider-s piece I18 held'at the upperendqf enn n-451 9 which extends downwardly and then: horizontally J- to the right beneath portions-I1 3 7130a? connection (not shown) withlthe nut 93 on spindle, ingthe 4: At the angle between the Ver.- tical andhorizontal partsv of arm I; l,-it.is'fermed:

into a sleeve I shown in vFig l-fi whichlslides on: rod I69 andby which arm H9 isguided andipartly. "As :the I, nut 1813 *mov es 1 along spindle 84, slider .or. contact piece -;I='I;8 on arm I19 comes in: contactqwith first: one and gthell ii anotherof fixed .cam pieces J35, 51 .716 eand" ICH Cam piecesrl'l5, I16 anddJl alleare highyenough tpw cause arm I19 to swing shaft .I188and lever; or ar g I68 clockwise .lar enough, recess I II beingdn engagement with-pin H2, todrawapawlg hilll into anr inefiective :position with respect to :ratchet:. m4.

Cam. piece 1 I16 is lower than cam pie.ces ;I-I,5 and IT! for a purpose-which will presently-appear.

vided withaportion 113 which exten usual manner.

supported on the shaft.

At .times, -however, it is desiredthat,-.pawl I08 affect-xtheactionof pawl I099 At times it is desired that :the .pawl 109 shall not operate spindlex during periods when nar-f rowing .is carried :out even if lever I68 1 and link I10 areinxzposition vtopermitit and thereforea means; I83 is provided which is shown asassociated with link I32 andwhich comprises a collar I84 fixed tolink I32 and-thaving-alever' I85 pivroted;-on a.pin-I88carried on the.collar%l84. The lever I85is providedwith a pin I81 fixed near'the free end thereof: and projectinglaterally there fromrimthe directionttoward the observer when viewed as'in-Fig. 1.0. Atension spring- I88 con-.

'nected between pin It'land a pin 489 fixed to-1 collar I'84gbelow-pin I80 gives lever I85 a snapoveraction, holding pin .I 8'! yieldingly againstithe v top of collar l84 or'iagainst'the top ofawhori zon-i talfingerc-I 90 which forms an extension of collar I84 projecting toward ;the vertical planewof spindle 85, depending on whether the operator throws lever I85 to the left-or to the right. Lever I85 also has a lug I9I thereon projecting from its other face in the direction opposite to said pin I81. Lug I9I extends into the plane of pawl I99 as shown in Fig. 14 so that when pin I8? is in its left hand position as viewed in Figs. 9 and 10 and link I32 is moved to the left as viewed in Fig. 9 due to cam I I5 and I I6 having been turned counterclockwise, lug I9I pushes pawl I89 to the left to render it ineffective to rack spindle 95. When now it is desired to permit pawl I89 to operate to rack spindle 85 during narrowing operations of actuator 8|, lever I85 is thrown over so that pin I81 thereon rests on nose I98 and the lug I9I is thereby placed in a position in which it permits pawl I89 to turn ratchet I84 one tooth on the down stroke of the actuator.

Usually, a narrowing operation involves a movement of the point combs or fingers equal to two needle spaces. This is the case, for instance, in making the fashion marks forming lines 53 and 54. However, in carrying out certain steps in the hereinabove-described method, it is necessary that the points move only one needle space in the narrowing direction. Such a step occurs at the times of forming the fashion marks 68. To this end, a manually operated means is provided whereby narrowing pawl 89 is prevented from racking spindle 85 more than one tooth, an angular distance equivalent to a movement of one needle space by the points, at each upstroke of actuator 8|. Further, as no change in the width of the fabric is desired at the time of said one needle narrowing action by pawl 89, said manually operated means has associated therewith also a means whereby pawl 88 may be prevented from affecting spindle 84. As shown, said manually operated means includes a handle member I92 which is pivotally connected to a pin I93 shown in Fig. 11, one end of said pin is fixed to a plate or cam I94, best shown in Fig. 18, pivoted on spindle 85. Handle member I92 has an enlargement I95 intermediate its ends in which is an aperture I96. About midway of its length, the upper edge of aperture I96 curves downwardly to form a projection I91 separating the upper part of the aperture into two sockets I98.

One end of a shaft I99 projects through the aperture I96 and has guide collars thereon spaced at opposite sides of handle member I92 to facilitate keeping the handle member I92 in a desired vertical plane when it is shifted longitudinally.

Owing to the weight of handle member I92 the shaft I99 remains in whichever socket I98 it is placed, whereby in effect the handle member may be releasably latched in either a right hand or a left hand position as viewed in Figs. 9, 10, 19, 20 and 21. When handle member I92 is moved from the left hand position in which it is shown in Fig. 19, to the right hand position in which it is shown in Figs. 20 and 21, plate I94 is turned clockwise. Plate I94 is provided with a cam portion 288, as appears clearly in Fig. 18. When handle piece I92 is in its left position, Fig. 19, the shaft I99 being in the right hand socket I98, cam portion 290 lies below the point of racking pawl 89 when the pawl is about to begin its 'upward movement and the pawl will therefore turn spindle 85 a distance equal to two teeth of ratchet 81. When it is desired to produce only a one tooth movement of ratchet 9'! by pawl 89, handle member I92 is drawn toward the right from the position as viewed in Fig. I9, so that shaft I99 will occupy the left hand socket I98 as shown in Fig. 20. Cam 289 now occupies a position in which its upper corner prevents pawl 89 from engaging the first tooth of ratchet wheel 8'? covered by its arc of movement. The pawl, however, is free to drop into engagement with the ratchet 81 as soon as it has missed said first tooth and therefore engages the second tooth in its two needle arc of movement to rack the spindle during the last half of its traverse to move the narrowing points only one needle space. Moreover, in carrying out the novel method within the invention, it is desired that narrowing pawl 88 shall be prevented from acting to rack end stop spindle 84 at the same time that pawl 89 is limited to a one needle effect. For this purpose plate I94 has an arm 29I (Fig. 18) thereon, which projects radially outward from the spindle 89 opposite cam portion 299. At its outer end arm 28I is connected by a bolt 292, with a similar arm 293 on a plate 294 outside of ratchet I94 and of generally ring-like form pivotally mounted on a collar 285 surrounding spindle 85. Therefore, when plate I94 is moved by handle member I92, plate 284 is turned also a like degree. Plate 294 has a second arm 286 integral therewith which is pivotally connected by a link 28? with a plate or cam 298 pivotally mounted on spindle 84. Last mentioned plate 288 has a cam portion 299 integral therewith which, when handle member I92 is in its right position, holds narrowing pawl 88 in the position shown in Fig. 20 so long as the actuator 8| is in its lowest and idle position and in which position pawl 88 will miss the tooth on ratchet 86 with which the pawl would otherwise engage. As soon as pawl 88 has moved slightly from the position in which it is shown in Fig. 20, it falls against its ratchet 99 as shown in Fig. 21. However, as each of the teeth On ratchet 86 covers an are equal to a two needle movement of the end stops and is therefore equal to the arc'of movement of pawl 88, the upper end of the pawl comes to a stop just before or just as it engages the next tooth of ratchet 86 and therefore spindle 84 is not moved when handle member I 92 is in the position shown in Figs. 20 and 21. It will be seen that the plates 284 and 268 need to be positioned quite exactly to ensure that pawls 88 and 89 shall just miss engaging the teeth nearest them when starting their upward movements.

A plate 2N], Figs. 16 and 18, is provided for disengaging the pawl 89 from the ratchet wheel 87 to limit the movement of the nuts 94 and 95 toward each other. The plate am is biased by means of a spring 2| I, one end of which is connected to the plate and the other end to the machine frame (not shown), into engagement with a rod 2I2 which is slidably carried in a portion of the machine frame, said rod ZIZ having a collar 2 I3 adapted to be engaged by the nut 94 when the nuts 94 and 95 have been moved to a predetermined position toward each other. Engagement of the nut 94 with the collar 2I9 removes the rod 2I2 from beneath the plate 2H3 whereby the plate is biased in a clockwise direction, Fig. 18, to a position beneath the pawl 89 thereby preventing further action of said pawl. The plate 2H] and associated parts acts in a well known manner and, forming no part of the present invention, is not described in further detail.

In addition to controlling the pull-back pawl I99 as hereinabove described, the lever 5S9, slider I18 and cams I75, I76 and Ill control the widening pawl I95 for end stop spindle 89 during considerable portions of the period needed for mak- 

